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Designer at this moment : Demna Gvasalia “Everything is real at Vetements”


Designer at this moment must be Demna Gvasalia, the fashion phenomenon who turning fashion upside down and the guy who brought ‘Anti-fashion’ as a topic into the fashion conversation which he did a lot in this past 18 months. The 35-year-old Georgian is a co-founder of the French label Vetements, artistic director of Balenciaga and one of the most talked about men in fashion right now. Raised in Soviet-era Georgia and Germany, Gvasalia studied fashion in Antwerp, worked with the menswear designer and member of the avant-garde Antwerp 6, Walter van Beirendonck. He moved to Maison Martin Margiela, where he came to love the deconstructed element of the clothing and where many of the team at Vetements, which is a co-operative with his brother Guram as CEO in 2014, also worked. He then worked for Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton. He debuted his own label named Vetements which means clothes in french.

Demna Gvasalia believes that fashion comes from the streets and the items that you will always want to wear them. Vetements won’t make glamorous jacket that you will wear only once and don’t wear it anymore because you afraid that your friends on Instagram’d already remembered it.

That’s maybe the reason why fast fashion is growing up so fast but Vetements is not. It’s slow fashion who never chase after trend and signature items are hoodie, jumpsuit, bomber jacket and puff jacket which never ‘Yes’ in fashion dictionary in oversized shirts, elongated sleeves, awkward garment combinations. But you will find out that you can wear Vetements’ hoodie in anywhere camping or on the street. Gvasalia also hinted that his brother’s Paris Couture Week collection will feature “ordinary” garments whose construction is both intricate and subtle.

At this moment, only two designers who completely created the aesthetic for their brands are Alessandro Michele at Gucci and Demna Gvasalia at Vetements. Anyone want to wear their items. But in this economic situation, not everyone is able to afford 995$ bag but people who want to be Vetements or Gucci don’t need to but them if they can not. They can find some similar pieces from thief shop too. Easily approachable which is the main reason why everyone fall in love with Gucci and Vetements.

“It’s never about the silhouette, always about the wardrobe. Two days before the show we mix and match for the show, like a real person would. Other brands sell the fashion dream, we try to communicate the reality of fashion today. People don’t want clothes that you can’t move about in.” said Guram Gvasalia. It’s clearly that, Vetements has a very nice CEO who described it own meaning of luxury. This consolidation has been a boon for the company best known for its distended, oversized garments and appropriation of corporate logos; much like many of its streetwear contemporaries, Vetements never restock and reproduce sold-out pieces and styles, which in turn skyrockets demand for the garments at retail—according to Fashionista, pre-orders currently make up for 90% of Vetements purchases at most stockists. They respect to the people who bought them first, the real fans who have the same aesthetic. Moreover, Vetements’ fanbase are A-list like Rihanna and Kanye West who are the best in PR and turn many items into wish list. In October, Demna Gvasalia was appointed to be an artistic direct.or to the prestigious, 98 year old house of Balenciaga. And he debuted menswear collection for the brand in last menswear fashion week.

In design department, he was described as Margiela’s ‘spiritual son’. The influence of Margiela is clear in Vetement’s deconstructed clothes – although Gvasalia also says that also comes from Comme des Garçons – but the difference, he says, is that he is not trying to be avant garde or conceptual. But if you grew up in a post-Soviet country, perhaps you’ll also recognise some very familiar sights ingrained into the brand’s DNA. As same as his friend Gosha Rubchinskiy who inspired from things around him such as fake sportwear, flower print and tight-high boots. Demna’s ever-present collaborator and stylist Lotta Volkova also comes from Vladivostok in the Russian Far East.
Fashion changes everyday, and Vetements never stands still. Gvasalia always makes his fashion into conversation. He loves collaboration. As we have seen in DHL tee and Ikea blue bag from Spring/Summer 2016. The basic yellow tee that look like you get it for free when you use service with DHL. But it looks so cool when it came from Vetements. This is what Demna questioned to the world what is beauty? And fashion is all about beautiful things only? Why the basic pieces that everybody hates can not be fashion?

And in his latest collection was Ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 2017 at Galerie la Fayette which held during Paris Haute Couture fashion week Fall/Winter 2016. Yeah Vetements never cares, plus Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture is welcomed him fondly. This collection inspired form people around him and this collection has collaborated with 18 mega-brands.The full list of collaborators includes Carhartt WIP, Levi’s, Canada Goose, Eastpak, Reebok, Alpha Industries, COMME des GARÇONS, Champion, Schott, Manolo Blahnik, Brioni, Lucchese, Mackintosh, Church’s, Dr. Martens, Kawasaki and Juicy Couture. The collaboration made the almost forgotten brands become alive and notable again.

Vetements made sure to use each brand for what its best known for, while infusing each with their unique silhouettes and fits. Gvasalia wasn’t afraid of pushing these brands to rip up their own rulebooks and go outside of their comfort zone and consequently they’ll gain a new legion of customers. The core of Vetements, Demna Gvasalia believes that fashion is for everyone and everyone on the street can be chic with Vetements which anything could be fashion in this realistic world.

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