J.W. Anderson – Spring Summer 2017
There’s no boundary between men and women in the world of Jonathan Anderson, the golden boy and was crowned best designer in both the women’s and men’s categories at last November’s British Fashion Awards. He erased a cliché rule that men must wear only menswear and “those” masculine garments.The feminisation of men’s dressing that’s come to dominate fashion in the last year shows no sign of abating.It’s a movement that coincides with continued conversations about gender fluidity and one that J.W.Anderson has long partaken in with his hybrid of boy/girl style. This is the era of genderless, we wear what we want.
The models wore aviator goggles and crowns that looked like they could have been made out of Lego, tunic shirts in a puzzle print, bags with “weird medallions” attached to them, and bright sweaters with very long sleeves which they trailed on the floor. (Backstage Anderson said he was thinking of what it looks like when a boy wears his father’s sweater. But some of them looked like a small boy trying on his mother’s clothes in the mirror and I’m pretty sure that he’s really enjoyed)
With his offering today once again proposing the elongated sweater dresses for men nonetheless they’re more vibrant. Psychedelic checks, paint effect spray across flowing robes, Egyptian Anubis imagery dancing across sweaters and trousers; this was menswear at its most experimental. Saturated colour dominated; crayon-like-bright of mint against bubblegum pink, an ombre-effect elongated shirt flowing from sea foam into sepia.
This is typically Andersonian selection. I called it a dressing-up box of childlike delights: dresses cut from a kind of melting tartan sashayed down the runway and quilted bibs came attached to shirts.It was the sort of show where notes had to be taken on each look, such was their individuality.
In the shoes department, those boxing-style boots from last season returned in a slightly modified guise. And what I love the most is a long shirt printed with a drawn mix of near-completed jigsaw puzzle pieces. A khaki zip-up blouson had ribbing at the waist the pink and green of Ellsworth Kelly. A long, grey double-breasted soft unstructured coat had body and sleeve from the same panel of fabric, the edges raw cut. And a pale green stripe sweater featured a fluid cartoonish figure walking and pointing to the sky. Like open a treasure toys box. “It’s like when a kid looks at influences; how they reinterpret those influences,” said Anderson. In the world of Anderson, his boy is charming and unique as though he can from the other planet and falling down to Earth. He’s does what he wants naively, still full of sharp questions. He’s a prince who needs no crown just only J.W. Anderson wise design instead.