Always receives a big applauses at Marni. From the fashion house which was once the fur expert turned into the new Milano glam girls. “ROMANTIC BUT MODERN” was what Consuelo Castiglini, head designer from Marni, said. Castiglioni has always been an experimenter in fabric and conceptual forms, but this time the whole put-together piece stepped out of the wearable art class to become stunningly chic. Those surface techniques including screening onto the finest wool, giant blue sequins on dress and faux fur collars. But if there aren’t enough Castiglioni offers the loomed Jacquard in couture quality and exaggerated embellishment in organic patterns with elliptical silhouettes. There were still elements of oversize; especially big, regal sleeves ballooning up between elbow and wrist. They gave a touch of historical romance and also a feeling of an artist let loose, which could be a description of the designer. The classic elements were checked and so do the moderns, shoulder-molding cutaway capes and stretchy ski pants are included. And of course the way to dress to express classy vision of modern elegance can’t be complete without big dangle earrings and put dark lipstick and go out looking like that. (those looks on the runway which models wore such a marvellous make up)
Somehow the woman who used to be categorized as Milan’s hippie, eclectic eccentric just sent out a collection that places a new Italian glamour front and center on the fashion agenda.