Sacai – Spring Summer 17
This was Chitose Abe’s first ever Sacai men’s runway collection showed along with her women’s pre-collection. She was inspired by Stanley Kubrick’s A Clockwork Orange, Abe sent out a creative mix of street wear staples including bowler-style hats and white bombers. But she started the first part in the shocking lilac hue. with some tops screen the Nadsat terms like “oddy-knocky” and “horrowshow” printed across T-shirts which mean “Alone” and “Good”
Shitose Abe always brings an ordinary material into unexpected one and this kind of experiment result in the new material. Thus, this collection is an outcome from her text-try experiment net and terrycloth and I can see the fabrics came from all over the shop – Mexican poncho stripes, British paisleys, a bit of tartan. A global viewpoint for a collection to dress the world. She put these fabric onto ordinary items (too) such as trench coat or bomber jacket but Abe’s clothes are by no means simple. They’ve got a lot of detail on it: zips, multi-sized pockets, decorated with brooches or separated patterns into pieces and connect them with zips. The collection looks still broad and the looks are multilayered, even it was Spring Summer’s.
Started with parade of models in shocking lilac outfits.The color, which wouldn’t raise an eyebrow on the women’s circuit but remains pretty rare in menswear And sub-inspiration that influenced her was South American culture gauchos with hooded parkas and ponchos elevated with textiles: ethnically stripped and woven fabric. Including flight suits and dusters in Mexican style. Pluralistic culture is a statement from Sacai.
Well-well, If, surprisingly, you’re not quite ready for bright magenta.But I think it’s not bad at all, it was easier to imagine yanking everything apart into individual pieces.Then there’s plenty of dusty pink in the Sacai collection to sate your colorful desires. I’d find a sugar daddy and let hime wear those dusty pink jacket. And finished in grey tone set in pinstripe with jumpsuit and oversize pants. The models wear sandals with midi socks walking through the sandy runway which giving the feeling “oddy-knocky”.
And let me talk about the Resort Collection, came in not much quantity but impactful as well. The (female) models in thick woven stripes of South American gauchos and grey deconstructed dress with her “I rule the world.” attitude. They wear wood platforms with socks either. All in all, Sacai’s collection was all perfectly wearable while never being boring. Just her jacket, nothing more complicated than that needed.