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Valentino – Spring Summer 2017


What is a perfection? This is what Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli had questioned before created menswear collection of Spring/Summer 2017. Inspired by the recent MetBreyer exhibition in New York ‘Unfinished: Thoughts Left Visible’, the line featured unsewn linings and loose stitchings.

The exhibition, which explores works in progress by artists from Leonardo da Vinci to Lygia Clark, Rembrandt to Rauschenberg and beyond. Showing artworks left in process of thinking and making. “Sometimes the journey is more important than the destination.” Sound cliché but true. So both of them applied this concept of incompleteness with the inspiration of Americana.

From the exhibition there are showcased works left incomplete; some were studies, others discarded projects. The essence saw raw edges, hanging threads and an undone feeling of the collection. They’re unfinished yet unusual beauty.

Then what they have were pins left shinily peeking from the unvarnished leather fold of welts on black derby shoes, maybe this is not our Valentino guys whom we’re familiar to the man who is neat and solemn. In this season they seemed to be a bit more wild yet gentle with dark palette such as dark green, navy, black and block the colours with beige.

Mention to elements that they put in are very masculine and uniform. An american spirit but raw as we saw the star symbol, flying eagle, baseball jacket and denim jumpsuits which were keys. With a little bit Red Indian beliefs and spirit showing on an ikat woven bag string. They seamlessly flowed as if they were separate shirts, jackets and trousers.

Highlights included the souvenir silk jackets embroidered with panther which Chiuri and Piccioli repurposed a jaguar print designed by Valentino Garavani in 1967 on jackets, bags, and other accessories. Moreover there was a military undertone with army jackets, camouflage print and the fringe of yarn left dangling at the hem.

A series of coats covered in brightly coloured botanical leather appliqué were particularly impressive. And to add a personal touch, there was monogramming on felt wool cashmere embroidered overcoats, field jackets, and parkas. But my best basic piece is a a gorgeous camel cashmere coat that deserved to be in everyone’s closet because it’s so fine and modern but creating a complete incomplete look.

As the theory of subtle unfinished details explain the inspiration of the collection as incompleteness means keeping alive the spirit of a creation. Showing the process of making garments profoundly, the journey of collection which as beautiful as the destination (I mean the fashion show and the circulation). All in all, I bet that most of people’s destination for now is Valentino store.

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