Vetements – Spring Summer 2017
It’s been few seasons in fashion week that everyone has been talking about Vetements over and much more over again. Especially when Demna Gvasalia debuted at Paris Couture Week. It has been one of the most anticipated collections this season. Demna Gvasalia and his team of designers unveiled the Vetements Spring Summer 2017 collection at the Galeries Lafayette, with seating areas named after the brand whose section of the department store they were in.
Couture is famously the most luxurious, expensive and decadent showcase in the fashion calendar and one of the more archaic and traditional occasions on the industry schedule too. But the dynamic collective brought couture firmly into 2016 with a show bursting with creative energy and innovation and their ever-present irony. “It was a new way of thinking about what couture could be,” said Gvasalia. “It’s not about 35 hours spent on embroidery, but it may be working with someone who is the best at doing say, shirts.” Hence, this collection has collaborated with 18 mega-brands.The full list of collaborators includes Carhartt WIP, Levi’s, Canada Goose, Eastpak, Reebok, Alpha Industries, COMME des GARÇONS, Champion, Schott, Manolo Blahnik, Brioni, Lucchese, Mackintosh, Church’s, Dr. Martens, Kawasaki and Juicy Couture.
The 55-look lineup included both men and womenswear and consisted entirely of collaborations, from fine Brioni’s tailored Jackets to Dr. Martens boots. When jumbo Carhartt aprons and hardy Levi’s denim jumpsuits stomped about with Lucchese cowboy boots. Reebok’s windbreakers came shrunken tightly in hooded over the head. (As you know, hoodies is in Vetements’ heart.) The oversized off-the-shoulder jackets that set the tone at Gvasalia’s debut for Balenciaga took flight here with a little help from Canada Goose. Those previously ‘imperfect’ bomber jackets now had Alpha Industries to engineer them with sloped shoulders and elongated sleeves. The collaboration hit of the show was undoubtedly even a reinterpretation of Juicy Couture’s signature velour tracksuit. They are deconstructed and oversized as always. There were twisted shirts, tailored blazers, huge Canada Goose puffer jackets, mackintoshes, hip-skimming boots for boys and girls, billowing overalls and sheer, gathered gowns.
Vetements made sure to use each brand for what its best known for, while infusing each with their unique silhouettes and fits. Gvasalia wasn’t afraid of pushing these brands to rip up their own rulebooks and go outside of their comfort zone and consequently they’ll gain a new legion of customers. “We destroy a lot of clothes to make new clothes,” was how Gvasalia summed up the collaboration process. I can say that his collection is a incredibly beautiful badass as always.